A Primer: Hybrids, Heirlooms and Open-Pollinated Varieties

In the last few years we have seen a big resurgence of vegetable gardening as a hobby. That has resulted in a lot of new gardeners trying their hands at an old pastime, and frankly I think that is a good thing. It wasn’t that long ago that everyone in the U.S. had a little garden plot, and it’s nice to see somewhat of a return to the days when people were more in touch with their food. Of course there are plenty of good reasons to grow your own food, and it can be a rewarding activity on many levels. It is great exercise too, and who knows, you might live to be 100 like some of the residents on the Greek island of Ikaria, where gardening is an integral part of life.

On the surface, the mechanics of gardening seem pretty easy. You plant something in the soil, give it a little water and food, then wait for it to grow into something tasty. But the devil is in the details, as they say. Trying to decide what varieties to plant can be one of the more difficult details for most gardeners, me included. It is so easy to be seduced by glossy catalogs and websites with photos of picture perfect vegetables, flowers and fruits. And the marketing departments employ writers who can make even humdrum varieties seem exciting with phrases like “What an amazing feast for the eyes!” (Burpee ad for tomato) or “A heavy harvest of crisp sweetness that is virtually stringless-what a way to usher in summer!” (a Territorial Seed ad for a snap pea).

seed catalogs entice gardeners

To further complicate things, the media and the seed companies alternately sing the praises of both the older, open-pollinated heirloom varieties and the newly introduced hybrids. How is a gardener to separate fact from fiction, and truth from hype? I believe information and education is the key. As the old adage goes, being forearmed is being forewarned. So I want to talk a little bit about the differences between open pollinated, heirloom and hybrid seeds. And hopefully that will help a bit with the seed selection process for both new and seasoned gardeners.

Let’s start with hybrids, and I’ll try to keep it simple. A hybrid results from the controlled pollination of one genetically uniform variety with the pollen from another genetically uniform variety. A seed company or hybridizer chooses male and female parents with specific traits and characteristics to produce a brand new offspring variety. Parents may be selected for disease resistance, earliness, unformity, color or flavor depending on the qualities sought for the new variety. The pollination is done by hand, and it is very labor intensive to produce the quantities of seed needed for mass marketing. That is one reason that hybrid seed is usually more expensive than open-pollinated varieties.

An F1 hybrid is the first generation offspring of the controlled pollination of the two parents. That is the seed that you buy, and plant. This generation usually has a vigor that is not present in open-pollinated varieties, and can result in higher yields. But one big downside to hybrids is that they don’t “breed true”. If you plant the seeds you save from an F1 hybrid they will not be the same as they were the first year, and in fact may be wildly different, reverting to ancestral forms. For that reason, hybrid seed must be purchased from the seed company. The original cross pollination of the two parent varieties must be repeated every year in order to produce the hybrid seed. Common home tomato varieties like Sun Gold, Early Girl and Celebrity are all hybrids.

So many varieties to choose from!

By contrast, open-pollinated (O.P.) varieties are stable strains that originally resulted either by chance or by human selections for their desirable traits. These varieties will breed true, and the offspring will remain fairly close to their parents, but with less uniformity than F1 hybrids. The seed source of O.P. varieties is kept “true” by utilizing the proper isolation of seed plants from each other to prevent cross-pollination by bees or wind. With these seeds cross-pollination with other varieties is not desirable, which can result in ‘off” types. Home gardeners can save seed from O.P. varieties as long as recommended practices for each species are followed. One good reference book for vegetable seed savers is “Seed To Seed” by Suzanne Ashworth, which has detailed instructions for each vegetable.

The definition of an heirloom variety differs between experts, but generally speaking you can think of heirlooms as antique open-pollinated varieties, often ones that are from a particular geographic region. Heirloom varieties have sometimes been handed down from generation to generation, or have been carried by immigrants as they move to settle in new places. Heirlooms have generally been around for at least 50 years, though some have been around much longer. For example, Oakleaf lettuce was first introduced in the 1770’s, when it was known as ‘American Oak Leaved’ lettuce. And Golden Queen tomato was a family heirloom that was discovered by Alexander Livingston at a county fair. He grew out seeds from the tomatoes, selected and improved the strain, then released it commercially in 1882.

heirloom Oakleaf lettuce

So how do you decide which types are best for you? To be sure, there is a big difference in taste and performance between different varieties. But beware of open-ended claims like “open pollinated varieties taste better” or “hybrids are more productive”. To be sure, many hybrids are created for large scale growers and not necessarily bred for great flavor. But many of the hybrids bred for the home grower have good flavor as a top priority, along with disease resistance and dependability. And these hybrids are the ones you are most likely to see in the gardening catalogs for home gardeners.

Heirlooms have the benefit of history on their side. They have stood the test of time, which means they have many desirable qualities that keep gardeners growing them year after year. But since some of them are regional specialties, it’s possible they might not do well in your area. For instance, a tomato that does well in cold weather areas might not do as well in the heat and humidity. And of course if seed saving is important to you, then O.P. varieties will have a special appeal.

Suffice it to say there are plenty of varieties to choose from, and it helps to know what specific qualities you want in a given vegetable. Let’s use broccoli as an example. Hybrid varieties are more likely to mature at about the same time, which can be good if you’re preserving the harvest but not as good if you want an extended harvest. Some of the O.P. varieties are likely to give you broccoli over a longer period of time, but if you have disease issues in your garden then hybrids might fare better. It all depends on your goals, conditions, geography and weather!

Here at Happy Acres we grow a mix of hybrids, open-pollinated and heirloom varieties. The heirloom Oakleaf lettuce often grows just a few feet away from hybrid tomatoes like Early Girl and Sun Gold. And if ever there was a poster child for hybrids with good taste, Sun Gold would get my vote. I love the flavor and productivity of Sun Gold, even if it does have a tendency to split open sometimes just as the tomatoes get ripe. But I also love the heirloom pepper Jimmy Nardello which rivals the productivity of hybrids with lots of sweet and tasty red ripe peppers. Of course, just because Jimmy Nardello does well for me doesn’t mean it will grow well for you, but it is something to consider.

Jimmy Nardello heirloom peppers

For further reading, Renee’s Garden Seeds has a short article about how home gardeners can choose from all the different varieties. And a NY Times article titled “Heirloom Seeds or Flinty Hybrids?” has industry titans like Rob Johnston (chairman of Johnny’s Selected Seeds ) and Jere Gettle (owner of Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds) weighing in with their opinions. Both articles make for interesting reading.

I hope I have helped shed a little light on this sometimes difficult to understand subject. Gardening is a fun activity enjoyed by millions worldwide, and I want to do all I can to help remove the mystery and make it easier and more rewarding. And Happy Growing from Happy Acres to all of you gardeners out there!

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November Harvests

We are finally in a slower period of the harvest season here at Happy Acres. Cooler temps and shorter days have definitely slowed the vegetables growth down, even as the frosts have made some of the harvests sweeter. Like the kale, for instance. I’m growing 3 varieties here this fall: Lacinato, Beedy’s Camden and Rainbow Lacinato. We’re also growing the hybrid Winterbor at the Impact community garden, and it always seems to do well around here. A few frosts have certainly sweetened up the kale, and more freezes are in the forecast.

Lacinato kale (click on any image to enlarge)

Lacinato doesn’t always survive the winter here, but last year it did, and we enjoyed harvests from it well up into April before it started bolting. This year I plan on saving seed from it, if it makes it to spring. I’ve really grown to like the sturdy and flavorful leaves of this heirloom kale. I remember when my wife and I went to Italy several years ago, it was autumn and almost every little backyard garden I saw had some of this ‘black’ kale planted. It’s been grown in the Tuscany region for centuries, but I saw it in other areas as well. I braised a mix of the Lacinato and Beedy’s for dinner one night, and the tender leaves were done in a little over 5 minutes.

Beedy’s Camden and Lacinato kales

Kale isn’t the only game in town though. The fall planted lettuces are still going strong in November. I’ve got one 4×4 foot cold frame bed planted all in lettuce, and they’ve been feeding us for a couple of months now. I have been harvesting mostly individual leaves up to this point, but now it’s time to cut whole plants since I would like to replant some more for winter use. Anuenue (ah-noo-weh-noo-weh) has done great this fall, and the red romaine Outstanding has really lived up to it’s name.

Outstanding (red) and Anuenue (green) lettuces

At Happy Acres we love our wilted lettuce. I always plant several varieties that have big, thin, tender leaves that do well when wilted. My favorites are Simpson and Simpson Elite, Red Sails and New Red Fire. We had some last night with hamburgers. My wife has a great recipe for wilted lettuce and I need to get her to share it sometime!

Red Sails and Simpson Elite lettuce for wilting

I planted lots of turnips this fall, including one bed where I intend to give it all away. I harvested over 10 pounds this week to take to the food pantry. There are lots more left in the beds for us and for donating. The ones in the photo are a mix of Purple Top and Hakurei. Fresh food donations are sparse this time of year and I know a few folks will enjoy these turnips and greens.

turnips for food pantry donation

Radishes and carrots are doing well in the fall garden too. The carrots were camera shy this week, but one of the Daikon radishes did pose for a photo. I’ve got a mix of Asian type radishes growing this year. The one in the photo below is a huge Shinden Risoh. I’m thinking this one will get pickled. China Rose has been great on salads, with a taste that mixes sweet and spicy in the same bite. I’ve only recently started growing the Daikon types, but so far they are quite easy and very productive.

Shinden Risoh radish

And last but not least in this November update are our Asian persimmons. The two trees are still quite young, and not very big, but they managed to bear 15 lovely persimmons this year. The Ichy Ki Kei Jiro tree was planted in 2008, and Gwang Yang in 2009. These trees are barely head high, and I couldn’t be more pleased with their output this year. And unlike many tree fruits, these grow just fine with no spraying necessary. We have really been enjoying these ‘ripe when firm’ non-astringent persimmons for eating fresh. The trees are bare of leaves by now, and the hanging persimmons are a pretty sight indeed.

Gwang Yang persimmon ripe for harvesting

That’s a look at what we’re harvesting here this November. To see what gardeners from all over the world are bringing in, visit Daphne’s Dandelions, host of the Harvest Monday series. And Happy Growing to all you gardeners out there!

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Garlicky Mashed Potatoes

When I think of comfort food, mashed potatoes often come to mind. Their creamy texture and yummy flavor warms your body and spirit. Potatoes sometime get a bad rap when it comes to nutrition, but actually they can be quite healthy for you depending on how they are prepared. They are a great source of potassium, and if you leave the skin on, they supply fiber and vitamin C, along with other vitamins and minerals. The problem comes when you fry them up into French Fries or potato chips, or load them up with butter and sour cream. This recipe avoids all that bad stuff, for the most part.

incredibly edible potatoes (click on any image to enlarge)

There’s no need to feel guilty when you eat these mashed potatoes. Using lowfat buttermilk and a little bit of real butter keeps the calorie count low. And they’re paired with roasted garlic, which adds lots of flavor and very few calories. Roasting the garlic tames the heat and mellows the flavor. If you’ve never roasted garlic before, you’re missing out on a real treat. And this recipe would be a good excuse to give it a try.

garlic cut for roasting

This recipe calls for butter that is mixed with both roasted and raw garlic for maximum flavor. If you want a little milder flavor you can omit the raw garlic. And lowfat buttermilk replaces more fattening ingredients sometimes added to mashed potatoes. If you don’t have buttermilk, you can substitute with lowfat yogurt thinned with a little skim milk. Or you can add a little lemon juice or vinegar to sweet milk to make a buttermilk substitute.

Garlicky Mashed Potatoes


Garlicky Mashed Potatoes Print This Recipe Print This Recipe
a Happy Acres original

2 whole garlic heads
1 tsp olive oil
2 Tbs butter, softened
1 Tbs chopped fresh chives
1 clove garlic, minced (optional)
1 1/2 lbs potato, cubed Yukon gold or red, with skin
1/4 cup lowfat buttermilk
1/2 tsp salt
freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat oven to 400°.
2. To prepare roasted garlic, remove white papery skin from garlic heads (do not
peel or separate the cloves). Cut away top part of garlic head to expose tops of
cloves. Drizzle olive oil over garlic. Wrap each head separately in foil. Bake at
400° for 45 minutes; cool 10 minutes.
3. Separate cloves; squeeze to extract garlic pulp. Discard skins. Combine garlic
pulp, butter, chives and raw garlic (if using)
4. To prepare potatoes, place potatoes in a saucepan, and cover with water. Bring
to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer 15 minutes or until tender.
5. Drain and return potatoes to pan. Add buttermilk; mash to desired
consistency with potato masher. Heat over low heat 2 minutes more or until thoroughly heated, stirring constantly. Stir in garlic butter, salt, and pepper.

Servings: 6 (about 1/2 cup each)

Nutrition Facts
Nutrition (per serving): 148 calories, 43 calories from fat, 4.8g total fat, 10.6mg cholesterol, 213.7mg sodium, 539.8mg potassium, 23.9g carbohydrates, 2.8g fiber, 1.5g sugar, 3.4g protein, 46.9mg calcium, 2.6g saturated fat.

 

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It’s Garlic Planting Time

Once again, it’s time to plant garlic here in Southern Indiana. I generally wait until late October or early November to plant ours, which gives the garlic plenty of time to get established before really cold weather gets here. If it ever does get here, that is. Last winter was so mild that the ground never really froze solid here for more than a few days at a time. So who knows what weather will be like this winter. At any rate, based on my experiences it is time to get the garlic in the ground.

I wait until just before planting to break apart the heads of garlic into individual cloves, also known as ‘cracking’ or ‘popping’ the garlic. Waiting until just before planting helps keep the garlic from drying out. And that’s important, because you want to keep the garlic in the best possible condition before planting. After all, it’s a living thing! Though some gardeners like to do some form of soaking, peeling or treating the cloves before planting, I don’t do anything special. I do pick the biggest cloves that are solid, firm and free of bad spots. Big cloves make big bulbs, and that means more garlic at harvest time.

garlic cloves ready for planting (click on any image to enlarge)

Later on I’ll plant some of the smaller cloves of garlic in another area, to be harvested as green (immature) garlic.  If you have the room in your garden, you can grow green garlic by planting some cloves closer together than usual (2 or 3 inches apart) and then harvesting in spring while the plants are still green. Space is always at a premium here so I usually plant some more in containers for the greenhouse. Green garlic is a special treat in spring, and it provides a taste of things to come while you’re waiting for the rest of the garlic to mature.

green garlic fresh from the garden in May

To prevent diseases and pest problems, I choose an area that hasn’t been planted in garlic or other members of the allium family for several years. A few days ago I prepared the planting beds by working in a healthy amount of compost and some complete organic fertilizer (Espoma Garden-tone 3-4-4). Garlic appreciates a well-drained and fertile soil, so it pays to spend a little time on soil preparation before planting. This year I am growing about half of the garlic in the main garden area, while the rest is in one of the beds nearer the house and greenhouse. Together these beds give me almost 70 square feet of growing space for the garlic. That’s a lot of garlic, but then we love our garlic!

garlic laid out in proper spacing before planting

Usually I plant all the garlic six inches apart in all directions, in a grid pattern.  I plant the cloves about 3 inches deep, pointed end up, using a trowel to dig the planting holes. Last year I experimented with a wider spacing, and I planted the garlic in one bed eight inches apart in all directions. I stuck with my usual six inch spacing for the garlic in the other bed. I didn’t see a significant yield difference between the two different spacings, but the wider spacing was a bit easier for me to keep weeded. So I will repeat the experiment this year.

trowel helps loosen the soil before planting

I’ll come back in a few weeks, before the ground freezes, and mulch the garlic with a layer of straw. The mulch will help keep down weeds, conserve moisture and keep soil temperatures from fluctuating so much this winter, which could cause the garlic to get heaved up out of the soil. And that’s all there is to do until spring when I’ll weed as needed and give the garlic a little side dressing of a high-nitrogen fertilizer like blood meal. The garlic should be ready to dig starting about July next year.

If you haven’t got your garlic planted yet, there is still time to get it in if the ground isn’t frozen. Garlic is easy to grow if you have the space, and there’s nothing quite like home grown garlic in the kitchen. And if you grow your own there should be plenty to enjoy fresh, dehydated, ground or pickled – it’s all good!

For more information on growing and preserving garlic, check out these related posts:

  1. Dehydrating Garlic
  2. Easy Refrigerator Pickled Garlic
  3. Growing Green Garlic
  4. How To Have Fresh Garlic All Year Long

 

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Homemade: Yellow Mustard

Now is the time of year that many folks start thinking about making homemade gifts for family and friends. It won’t be long before my wife and I start making soap again for gifts and for our own use. And I’m guessing we will be making some lotions and other homemade potions too. But I’ve got another suggestion for a unique homemade gift that is surprisingly easy to make and incredibly tasty too: mustard!

If you don’t know already, this popular condiment is made from ground up mustard seeds, which are the dried seeds of several different species of mustard plants. Mustard seeds also come in various colors, with black and brown seeds generally being hotter and spicier than the yellow ones. Mustard seeds are available in specialty stores as well as by mail order (I got mine from Penzeys). You can also sometimes find them in ethnic groceries, since the whole seeds are popular in many of the world’s cuisines.

ingredients for yellow mustard (click on any image to enlarge)

Last year I made a couple of different homemade mustards. One was a Spicy Brown mustard and the other was a Dijon. The Spicy Brown was my favorite, and my wife loved it too. It had a great flavor and texture, and I wound up making another batch of it again a few months ago when the first batch ran out. This year I decided to branch out and try another mustard recipe.  I wound up making a mustard using only yellow seeds that is a bit milder than the Spicy Brown Mustard, but still tastes great and can be customized to suit your own tastes. The seeds are soaked for 2 days in vinegar, which helps to soften up the seeds for processing.

soaking mustard seeds in vinegar

Don’t think ‘ballpark mustard’ when you see this recipe. This mustard has a nice grainy texture and a lovely taste that is mild but definitely not boring. Use a good quality vinegar since it will be a big taste component of the finished product. My recipe calls for using turmeric and allspice, but you can experiment with different spices to make a unique one-of-a-kind mustard you can call your own.

Homemade Yellow Mustard


Homemade Yellow Mustard Print This Recipe Print This Recipe
adapted from this recipe

1/2 cup yellow mustard seeds
3/4 cup apple cider vinegar
1/3 cup water
1/2 tsp salt
1 tbsp honey
1 tsp turmeric
1 dash ground allspice

1. Soak the mustard seeds in the vinegar and water. Cover and let sit for 2 days at room temperature.
2. Add salt, honey, turmeric and allspice to mustard seed mixture. Process with blender or food processor to desired consistency, adding more water if necessary.
3. Put mustard in clean jar or other non-reactive container. Cover and let sit for a week at room temperature to mellow the taste. Mustard can be aged longer for a milder taste.
4. Refrigerate mustard to halt the mellowing and preserve it. Mustard should keep for several months refrigerated.

Servings: 32 (serving size 1 tbsp)

Nutrition Facts
Nutrition (per serving): 16 calories, 7 calories from fat, <1g total fat, 0mg cholesterol, 36.6mg sodium, 26.9mg potassium, 1.9g carbohydrates, <1g fiber, <1g sugar, <1g protein, 15.2mg calcium, <1g saturated fat.

You might also be interested in these related recipes :

1. Homemade Whole-Grain Mustard

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