Breaking Ground, and Finding Treasure

I took advantage of Monday’s warm weather (high 60°F) to work for a bit in the kitchen garden and greenhouse. One task I wanted to do was to begin preparing one of the beds for spring carrots. It’s about 3 weeks before it will be time to sow carrot seeds, but I wanted to see how the soil in that bed looked, and to clean it up a bit.

preparing bed for planting

preparing bed for planting (click on any image to enlarge)

Last fall I planted that bed with radishes, mostly daikon types plus some China Rose. I harvested what I wanted, then left the rest as a cover crop. Daikon radishes and other ‘forage’ type radishes have a large taproot that will penetrate into the soil and open it up for the next crop. The decaying roots also contribute some nitrogen and organic matter. I used a fork and loosened the soil to the depth of the tines, which should help get it ready for some nicely formed carrots.

I also removed some of the larger pieces of radish that were left, and moved them to a nearby bed that will get planted a bit later on. That should give the organic material more time to break down. Some of the radishes were still recognizable underground, especially the reddish pink China Rose. It is amazing they had survived the winter so far, though the tops were certainly either dried up or rotten.

leftover radishes from underground

leftover radishes from underground

The other bed I wanted to work up had been planted in carrots last fall. I thought I had dug them all up last December, but I obviously missed a few, as you can see in the below photo.

buried treasure, in the form of carrots

buried treasure, in the form of carrots

By the time I had worked up the whole bed, I had over 12 ounces of little golden surprises! They all looked amazingly sound, and will no doubt figure in one of our meal plans in the near future. They will surely be appreciated, since the rest of our fall carrots are long gone. I never dreamed I would be digging up a harvest when I got out my fork, and I’m glad I didn’t spear any.

how did I miss this one?

how did I miss this one?

nice haul of carrots

nice haul of carrots

Last November I had planted some smaller cloves of garlic in the first bed with radishes, for pulling as green garlic this spring. About half of them didn’t make it, so I replanted with some larger cloves that were now sprouting (Red Janice and Maiskij). Hopefully they will fare a bit better. I sometimes plant green garlic in containers, but this year I had a little room on the edge of the bed that I dedicated to it. I may still stick some in the ground somewhere else, since what is left of the early Asian/turban type garlics is all sprouting.

sprouting garlic planted for green garlic

sprouting garlic planted for green garlic

planting green garlic

planting green garlic

The beds look better now that they have been turned over and cleaned up a bit. I want to work in a little compost before planting, but I’ve used up all I had from last fall. There’s no doubt plenty ready in our two bins, but that will be a job for another day.

beds after cleanup

beds after cleanup

One last chore I got done was weeding the bed with the overwintered spinach. It had a lot of chickweed and dead nettle growing in it, so I tried to get as much out as I could without hurting the spinach, which still needs to be thinned a bit. I thought I would give it a few days to recover from weeding before I finished thinning. And with any luck we’ll be enjoying some spinach soon!

overwintered spinach after weeding

overwintered spinach after weeding

After a brief warm spell early in the week, the weather turned cold again. I’m glad I got a little done outside while I could enjoy some warm-ish weather. I know that the hot and humid days of summer will be here all too soon, but it was still nice to be able to work outside without shivering in the cold!

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For Easy To Grow Greens, Think Asian

I recently posted the following article at Kitchen Gardener’s International, a nonprofit organization whose mission “is to empower individuals, families, and communities to achieve greater levels of food self-reliance through the promotion of kitchen gardening, home-cooking, and sustainable local food systems.” Visit them for more information on gardening, cooking and food preservation.

I love to eat greens of all kinds, and they are a staple food on my menu. And as a gardener, I also like plants that are easy to grow and productive. So I guess it’s only natural that I fell in love with Asian greens when I first started growing them. In general, they are easy and undemanding garden performers, and as a group they offer a wide variety of tastes, shapes, colors and growing habits. And it doesn’t hurt that they are versatile and tasty in the kitchen as well.

Mei Qing pak choi and Yukina Savoy

Mei Qing pak choi and Yukina Savoy (click on any image to enlarge)

All of the easiest to grow Asian greens are members of the brassica family, a group that includes more widely known vegetables like broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and kale. Asian brassicas are fast growers, and can be used at any stage of growth, from baby size on up to mature plants. Even the flowering shoots are edible, and in fact some varieties like choy sum and gai lan are specifically grown for their edible flower shoots and stems.

flowering choy sum in steamer basket

flowering choy sum in steamer basket

Asian greens in general grow better in cool weather. Their speedy growth allows them to be planted in early spring and then replanted again in fall for a second harvest. Many can also be planted thickly and harvested with scissors in a cut-and-come-again manner, though second cuttings are usually not as big as the first.

komatsuna plants regrowing after harvesting outer leaves

komatsuna plants regrowing after harvesting outer leaves

For a quick introduction to this wonderful group of vegetables, here’s a list of five of my favorite easy to grow Asian greens:

  1. Pak choi, also known as pac choi, or bok choy, is a vegetable that has been grown since ancient times. There’s quite a choice of varieties available, some having green leaves with white or green stems and others having reddish purple or bright yellow leaves. And it comes in all sizes too, from the miniature Toy Choi at 5 inches tall to the giant Joi Choi variety which grows to 18 inches in height. All are easy to grow, and mature plants can be harvested in about 2 months after sowing, with baby plants usable much sooner. One of my favorites is Mei Qing Choi, a hybrid green stemmed variety that is tolerant of both heat and cold.
    white stemmed Joi Choi

    white stemmed Joi Choi

  2. Tatsoi  (sometimes spelled tah tsai) is a pak choi relative that is also known as spinach mustard and spoon mustard, due to its spoon shaped leaves that resemble spinach. It is very cold hardy, and usually survives the winter here in zone 6b if protected by a cold frame. Yukina Savoy is a variety that is more upright in habit and a little slower to bolt in spring.

    tatsoi leaves are spoon shaped

    tatsoi leaves are spoon shaped

  3.  Komatsuna is a green that many gardeners have never even heard about, much less grown. And that’s a shame, because this leafy, tasty green relative of the turnip is easy to grow in most any season. It is tolerant of both heat and cold, though like most greens it does do better in cooler weather. Komatsuna has a mild flavor somewhere between mustard and cabbage, and frosts and freezing temperatures make it taste even sweeter. The hybrid variety Summerfest grows 12-18 inches tall, and the leaves can be harvested individually, or the whole plant can be cut at once.

    harvested komatsuna greens

    harvested komatsuna greens

  4. Fun Jen and Tokyo Bekana are two greens that are sometimes classified as Chinese cabbage, and sometimes as pak choi. I like to think they combine the best of both vegetables. With a juicy white stem and tender frilly leaves they have a mild, delicate flavor and can be used either raw in salads or added to soups or stir-fries. These non-heading plants are both much easier to grow than the sometimes finicky Chinese cabbage. The baby leaves are especially nice in salad mixes.

    harvested Fun Jen

    harvested Fun Jen

  5. Mizuna is a frilly green that you might have eaten and never realized it, since it’s a common ingredient in commercial salad green mixes. And there’s a good reason it finds its way into those mixes. Mizuna is quick to grow, cold hardy, mild tasting, and very lovely to look at too. Mizuna plants respond well to harvesting the leaves a few inches above the soil line with scissors and then letting new ones regrow. The crisp leaves are sturdy and keep well after harvest, and they add some ‘loft’ to salad mixes. Mizuna is also tasty when cooked, useful in soups, lightly steamed, or stir-fried by itself or with other vegetables and meats.
Tubtrug full of mizuna greens

Tubtrug full of mizuna greens

Though none are fussy growers, all of these Asian greens have fairly shallow root systems, and they appreciate a fertile soil with good moisture retention. They do well with dense plantings, which makes them great for gardeners with limited growing space. This also serves to conserve moisture by shading the soil and reducing weed competition. As a rule, Asian greens have few disease or pest problems, but flea beetles and cabbage caterpillars do love to feast on the tender leaves. Floating row cover material will help to keep both pests under control. Slugs can also be a problem, and they can be controlled by hand picking or by using iron phosphate pellets.

If you’ve never tried growing Asian greens, you might consider giving them a spot in your own garden. With so many varieties to choose from, there’s bound to be one that suits your tastes. And who knows, you just might wind up loving them as much as I do!

For more information on growing Asian greens, visit my Gardening Tutorials page, where you can find information on that and a lot more.

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Blackened Salmon

I can’t remember the first time I ever tried blackened fish, but I do remember that I liked it. I don’t even remember where I ate it, except that it wasn’t in New Orleans, where Chef Paul Prudhomme made blackened fish popular at his K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen restaurant back in the 1980’s. Wherever and whenever I had it, I liked it so much that I had to try making it myself at home as soon as possible. I bought one of Chef Paul’s cookbooks, and soon I was making all kinds of Cajun dishes, including blackened fish.

Blackened Salmon

Blackened Salmon (click on any image to enlarge)

These days, blackened fish and meats are a popular menu item at restaurants all over the world. For those who are unfamiliar with it, blackening is a cooking technique that involves dredging meat or seafood in butter and spices, then cooking in a very hot cast iron skillet. Unless you have a heavy duty commercial grade exhaust system in your kitchen (the kind used in restaurants), it needs to be done outdoors due to the smoke it produces. I use a gas grill for blackening, which keeps the smoke and heat safely outdoors.

Years ago I bought a 12″ cast iron skillet specifically to use for blackening, and that’s all I ever use it for. The skillet itself is black now and well-seasoned after many years of use. You can use any good quality, heavy cast iron skillet though for blackening, and it doesn’t have to be dedicated just for that purpose.

cast iron skillet used for blackening

cast iron skillet used for blackening

My recipe is an adaptation of the method that Chef Paul Prudhomme used. His technique involves dipping the fish in melted butter, then seasoning with the spice mix before cooking and adding even more butter. But I found I get good results by seasoning the fish with spices, adding a little butter to a hot skillet, then placing the fish fillets in the skillet. My method uses less butter, and is easier and quicker, especially when you’re working over a smoking hot skillet on a gas grill. And I’m happy with the results, as is my wife who has learned how to cook it herself now!

salmon with spices and ready for skillet

salmon with spices and ready for skillet

I also came up with my own blackening spice mix. You can certainly buy a ready-made mix, and Chef Paul’s Magic Seasoning brand is a good one. I have also used the Durkee blackening mix. But I like making my own mix, where I can control the amount of salt and heat that goes in it. I also like using some of my own herbs and spices.

Blackened Salmon with Forbidden Rice and green beans

Blackened Salmon with Forbidden Rice and green beans

You can use either skinless salmon fillets or ones with the skin on for this recipe. Skinless pieces will allow both sides to be blackened. For a spicier dish, use more cayenne pepper, or omit it entirely for a milder taste.

Blackened Salmon Print This Recipe Print This Recipe
Adapted from Chef Paul Prudhomme

Seasoning Mix:
1 tbsp paprika (sweet, not hot)
1 tsp onion powder
1 tsp garlic powder
1/2 tsp dried thyme leaves
1/2 tsp dried oregano leaves
1/2 tsp dried fennel seeds
1/4 tsp ground red pepper (cayenne)
1/2 tsp white pepper
1/2 tsp salt (optional)

4-6 oz salmon fillets, skinless or with skin on
1 tbsp butter

1. Mix together all ingredients in seasoning mix by grinding with mortar and pestle or in spice grinder. The mix recipe makes enough to season about 8 fish fillets, depending on how heavily you coat the fish.
2. Heat cast iron skillet outside on gas grill until skillet is smoking hot. That generally takes anywhere from 20 to 30 minutes on our gas grill. It will take longer if outside temperature is colder, or on a windy day. The hotter the better is the rule for this recipe.
3. While skillet is heating up, sprinkle a generous amount of seasoning mix on the salmon fillets. Coat both sides if skinless, or only coat the skinless side if using skin-on salmon.
4. When skillet is ready, put butter in skillet and melt. Be careful, as the butter may flame up!
5. Immediately add salmon pieces one at a time. Close grill cover and cook for 2 minutes, then turn salmon and cook on other side for an additional 2 minutes. Thicker pieces of fish may need additional cooking time.
6. Serve immediately.

NOTE: Let skillet cool thoroughly before attempting to remove from grill or to clean. The cast iron will retain heat for a long time.

Servings: 4

Nutrition Facts
Nutrition (per serving): 349 calories, 195 calories from fat, 21.7g total fat, 107.9mg cholesterol, 247.6mg sodium, 683mg potassium, 2.7g carbohydrates, 1.1g fiber, <1g sugar, 34.4g protein, 37.9mg calcium, 5.6g saturated fat.

 

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2013 Audubon Beekeeping School

For local folks, the 2013 Audubon Beekeeping School is coming up soon on Saturday, March 2nd. This annual event will be held at the Henderson County Extension Office and Expo Center, which is a great facility for events like this. It’s a wonderful way for anyone who is interested to learn a bit more about bees and beekeeping, as well as to rub elbows with local area beekeepers like yours truly.

honeybee on buckwheat flower

honeybee on buckwheat flower

My wife and I attended the program last year, and had a lovely time while we learned. The school offers sessions for beginner, intermediate and advanced beekeepers, as well as a track called Beyond The Hive that features sessions on candle making, cooking with honey, and other uses for honey and bee products around the home. Several vendors were setup on site as well, including displays from Walter T Kelley and Dadant & Sons, which offered a chance for us beekeepers to do some shopping!

The keynote speaker this year will be Stephanie Tarwater, and the programs will begin at 8:45am and conclude at 3:00pm. Topics on the program are:

Beginners — “Equipment Assembly” by Larry Stone; “Beekeeping 101” by Jan Powell; “Install Package Bees/Splits” by Paul Stone and “First Year Management” by LV Dugger.

Intermediate — “Swarm Control” by Kent Williams; “Pests and Disease” by Stephanie Tarwater; “Backyard Beekeeping” by Brian Stiff” and “Honeycomb Production” by Ernest Cornett.

Advanced — “Pests and Disease” by Stephanie Tarwater; “Grafting Queens” by John Pace; “Other Ways of Raising Queens” by Jim Hazelrigg” and “Working With Bees” by Joe Taylor.

Beyond The Hive — “Cooking With Honey” by Amanda Hardy; “Nectar and Pollen Sources” by Jan Powell and “Herbs and Honey” by Betsy Stone.

Pre-registration fee is $15 until February 22, 2013, and includes lunch. Registration at the door will be $20. For a registration form, contact Jan Powell at 860-2942.

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Upward and Onward!

It’s early February, and that means it’s time for 2013 seed starting activities to begin. I’m off to a modest start so far, sowing seeds for parsley, cilantro, lettuce, arugula and Swiss chard. The first arugula to emerge was up in less than 72 hours, with the lettuce not far behind it. No doubt the parsley will be the last to show signs of life, since it can take two or three weeks to germinate.

young arugula seedling (click on any image to enlarge)

young arugula seedling (click on any image to enlarge)

My favorite seed starting medium is Pro-Mix BX, which is a blend of sphagnum peat, vermiculite and perlite. I’m also experimenting this year with using coco coir. This won’t be a controlled experiment by any means, but I am going to use it for germinating some selected seeds and then as a transplant mix for growing on the seedlings. Coco coir is made from the fibrous outer husks of coconuts, and is considered to be an earth-friendly alternative to sphagnum peat moss. I got this particular mix from Gardener’s Supply Company, and it is made from finely ground coir that is compressed into bricks. Each of these bricks expands to make 10 quarts of planting mix when rehydrated.

handful of coco coir mix

handful of coco coir mix

The coco coir can be used as-is for seed starting, or mixed with other ingredients like perlite and vermiculite. Like peat moss, the coco coir doesn’t have any nutrients itself, but does offer a lightweight, porous and disease resistant medium that holds moisture and allows air to penetrate to plant roots. Both can be mixed with compost, humus, worm castings or other organic materials to make a soil mix suitable for transplanting and general potting use.

lettuce seedling emerging from coco coir mix

lettuce seedling emerging from coco coir mix

For this first round of seed starting, I used a 200 cell plug flat, and filled some of the cells with coco coir and some with Pro-Mix BX. I used moistened coco coir with no amendments this time, but I will also experiment with mixing it with other ingredients in the future.

200 cell plug tray

200 cell plug flat

Next in line for vegetable seed starting will be the early cole crops like broccoli, cabbage and kohlrabi, plus some Asian greens and green onions. I have ordered plants for regular onions, instead of growing them from seed myself. And it’s also time to get some petunia seeds going, since they take a fairly long time from sowing to blooming. It looks like I will be busy with seed activities in the next week or so.

March will also see a lot of seed starting going on, because that’s when it’s time to start tomatoes, eggplants and peppers here, along with a few other things. You can see my general seed starting and planting schedule at any time from the main menu, or by clicking here. Even though it’s still winter time, spring is right around the corner and it won’t be long before gardening activities are going full-blast around here!

 

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