The Sweet Potato Dig

This week I decided it was time to dig a few of the sweet potatoes and see how they were sizing up. With the weather report calling for seven straight days of rain, I was anxious to get them out of the ground if at all possible. The soil was already wet from a recent rain, and more rain would not make the digging any easier. The first few plants I dug looked promising, so I kept on digging. I am still recovering from a head cold that has slowed me down a bit lately, but it sure felt good to get out there and work in the garden.

I grew five varieties this year, two purple ones I am calling Carla’s Purple and Norma’s Purple, the orange-fleshed Hernandez, my old standby Beauregard and the tan skinned purple fleshed Okinawa. All total I planted 30 slips, set out about 14-16″ apart in a ridge of raised soil. The Okinawa variety is truly an experiment, as they take a long, hot growing season to produce well. I decided to leave these to grow as long as possible, and I will dig them later this month before frost threatens.

harvest of Beauregard sweet potatoes

harvest of Beauregard sweet potatoes

Beauregard typically makes big sweet potatoes here in our area. I got just over 25 pounds from them, for an average of 1.9 pounds/slip. That is lower than last years yield of 2.25 pounds/slip. However, the Beauregard was planted on the end of the row, and part of that area is new growing space as a result of my 2012 garden expansion. It is possible that contributed to its lower yield this year. But that is just a guess. I have seen similar results this year in the same general area of the garden, which tells me I probably need to work in more compost/organic material there next year

Carla

Carla’s Purple sweet potatoes

It is my second year growing the purple variety our friend Carla gave to me to grow. This year they produced right at 10 pounds from 4 plants, for an average of 2.5 pounds/slip. That is up considerably from last year’s average of 1.7 pounds/slip. These tubers were mostly long and tended to go straight down, often down into the subsoil. I broke a few, all the while thinking “why aren’t you growing in this nice soft ridge of soil I worked up for you?” Still, I was pleased with the results.

big sweet potato sticking up

big sweet potato sticking up

It is my first year growing the Purple variety given to me by Norma (Garden To Wok). I set out 5 slips of this variety, and the vines grew lush and long all summer, so I had high hopes for the roots. I was working my way down the row, and when I got to this variety I saw the first root that was sticking up out of the soil. That is usually a sign that a big one is waiting, and I was not disappointed.

Norma

Norma’s Purple sweet potatoes

I wound up with 15.5 pounds of Norma’s Purple, for an average of 3.1 pounds/slip. They were nicely shaped and fairly easy to find near the planting spot, which is always a plus in my book. There were not many really small roots either, which I think can be harder to use in the kitchen. I am reminded of Goldilocks when I think of the ideal sweet potato that is not too big, and not too small!

Hernandez sweet potatoes

Hernandez sweet potatoes

Hernandez is a variety I have grown in the past when I got the slips from Robin’s Nest, a local nursery where I also get my Beauregard slips. The last few years Robin has been unable to get Hernandez from her usual supplier and so I have not grown them. But this year I ordered Okinawa slips from Duck Creek Farms and I also ordered some Hernandez. The yield from 5 slips I planted was a little over 5 pounds, for an average yield of 1 pound/slip. The sweet potatoes were long and skinny, and nothing like the Hernandez I grew in previous years. In 2011, Hernandez out-performed Beauregard and produced 3.4 pounds/slip, but this year it was the least productive of the four varieties I dug.

large Norma

large Norma’s Purple sweet potato

The big root of Norma’s Purple sticking out of the ground proved to be the largest of that variety, and weighed in at 2 pounds 7.8 ounces. Which is a bit smaller than the whopper Daphne harvested last week, but still big. Bigger is not always better when it comes to sweet potatoes though, but I am not complaining about the size or the yield of this variety.

Beauregard sweet potato

Beauregard sweet potato

The biggest one of all this year turned out to be a Beauregard. It weighed in at 3 pounds 5.7 ounces. The shape is really unusual, with a big round section at the ‘top’ where it attached to the vine and tapering smaller as it grew down into the soil. It will be a bit harder to use one that big and with that shape. I am thinking it will wind up getting baked and served up when we have company over for dinner, since otherwise the two of us would have to eat on it for days.

closeup showing skin of Beauregard

closeup showing skin of Beauregard

Overall, the sweet potatoes were in great shape this year, with no vole damage like I’ve had in years past. The were a few roots where wireworms had eaten on them a bit, but otherwise the roots were pretty smooth and clean. I have no idea why the voles left them alone this year, but it was great to not have a bunch of sweet potatoes with teeth marks already on them! The purple varieties both did great, outproducing even my usually large and dependable Beauregard. The Hernandez was disappointing though, and I don’t think I will plant it again unless Robin gets her source back. I have no real expectations for the Okinawa variety, so if that one produces it will be a very pleasant surprise.

After harvest, I moved all the sweet potatoes down to the basement, which is the warmest spot we have to cure them. Ideally they prefer temperatures between 80-85°F and high humidity (85-90%), though home gardeners like me usually have to just do the best we can. I spread the potatoes out to a single layer and then covered them with sheets of newspaper to help keep the humidity higher. I’ll let them sit and cure for a couple of weeks before we do any taste testing. And I won’t clean them up any more until right before I use them. The total harvest of 56 pounds so far is the same as I got last year, with the possibility of adding a few more if the Okinawa plants produce anything.

We still need to dig the sweet potatoes at the Impact Community Garden. Those were planted about two weeks later than the ones here, so I think it makes sense to leave them for a bit longer, as long as cold weather doesn’t arrive. Based on current weather forecast we should be good for another week at least.

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Lavender Honey Bastille Soap

Olive oil has been used both inside and outside the body for thousands of years, especially in Mediterranean cultures where the olive trees flourish. It is loaded with antioxidants, polyphenols and other components that nourish, condition and soften the skin when applied externally. It also has a long history of being used in soapmaking, and the olive oil soaps made in the Castile region of Spain are legendary.

Castile soaps made with 100% olive oil are mild and gentle on the skin. They have many of the same moisturizing and conditioning qualities of the olive oil they are made from. However they are somewhat challenging for the home soapmaker to produce, requiring more mixing time with the lye, and lots more curing time before they are ready to use. While most cold process soaps are cured and ready to use four to six weeks after they are made, 100% olive oil soaps are best after six months to a year of curing time. And while 100% olive oil soaps are great for the skin, they are also shy on their lathering properties, and the lather can sometimes leave a slimy feel on the skin.

Lavender Honey Bastille Soap

Lavender Honey Bastille Soap

All the soaps we make at Happy Acres have some olive oil in them. Our basic soap recipes usually have between 30-40% olive oil in them, along with other oils and butters. We have made several 100% olive oil soaps too, but so far haven’t been real happy with the results. Earlier this year I revisited the idea of making a soap with a high percentage of olive oil. And after some research, I found out about Bastille soaps which have a high percentage of olive oil along with a few other carefully selected base oils. And so the recipe for Lavender Honey Bastille Soap was born!

This soap contains 70% olive oil, along with a small amount of coconut and castor oils plus some shea butter. The coconut oil helps to increase the lather and harden the soap, while the castor adds moisturizing qualities and makes for a creamy lather. Shea butter also hardens the bar plus it’s great for the skin.

extra virgin olive oil

extra virgin olive oil

The soap also has honey in it, which helps increase the lather. I like to add some lavender essential oil, but you can use your own favorite EO or leave it unscented. The honey is added to the lye water, which typically turns a reddish brown color when the lye reacts to the sugars in the honey. When the lye water is mixed in with the oils, the result is usually a yellow-gold color. It would be nice if the soap turned out to be this color, but it lightens up to a shade of tan as the soap cures.

mixing the soap with immersion blender

mixing the soap with immersion blender

We poured this soap into one of our homemade PVC pipe molds, after lining it with freezer paper to keep the soap from sticking to the mold. We let the mold sit for for four days to finish saponification.

pouring soap into mold

pouring soap into mold

Then we pulled the soap from the mold, removed the freezer paper, and cut it into bars.

cutting Lavendar Honey Bastille Soap into bars

cutting Lavendar Honey Bastille Soap into bars

After cutting, we laid out the soap so it can cure. It is generally safe to use after a couple of weeks, but the longer it cures, the harder the bars will be.

bastille soap curing

bastille soap curing

Please refer to the cold process instructions here if you are new to making soap. Always take the proper safety precautions (we wear rubber gloves and goggles when mixing and making the soap).

Lavender & Honey Bastille Soap

Lavender Honey Bastille Soap Print This Recipe Print This Recipe
(adapted from a Candle & Soap About.com recipe)

Olive Oil – 315 grams (70%)

Coconut Oil – 67.5 grams (15%)

Shea Butter – 45 grams (10%)

Castor Oil – 22.5 grams (5%)

Distilled Water – 171 grams

Lye – 59 grams  (7% superfat)

1 Tbsp of honey, warmed and added to a small amount of the distilled water, then added to the lye water once the lye water has cooled so both liquids are about the same temperature.

Added at light trace:

4 tsp lavender essential oil

This recipe is for a 1 lb/450g batch (oil weight) of soap. We ran this recipe through a soap/lye calculator, and you should always run your recipes too before making them. This one at SoapCalc is our favorite.

NOTE: This soap is superfatted/discounted at 7%

For more recipes and soap information, check out my wife’s Soap Recipe page. I’ll be back soon with more adventures. Until then, Happy Growing (and soaping) from Happy Acres!

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Monday Recap: Almost Falling Back

The last week or so has brought fall weather here to our neck of the woods. And I for one am happy to see it, because I am ready for a change of season. The garden harvests have slowed down considerably, but we are still getting quite a few things to eat from our own backyard. Like the zucchini in the below photo. There are two Romanesco and one Striata d’Italia there, and a couple of them were hiding from me and got a little bigger than I prefer. These two squash plants have managed to keep on going all summer, and any squash they can produce at this point is a real bonus.

trio of Romanesco and Striata d

trio of Romanesco and Striata d’Italia zucchini

But even though the zucchini were big, they made some great zucchini bread! This is my Spelt Chocolate Zucchini Bread recipe in the below photo, and I have found the bread freezes exceptionally well. That makes it a great way to enjoy the zucchini even when the harvests are over for the year.

Spelt Chocolate Zucchini Bread

Spelt Chocolate Zucchini Bread

A very pleasant surprise last week was a harvest of pole snap beans. Fortex and Musica have really done well this year, and I got a little over a pound of them one day. Like the zucchini, green beans in October is always a treat!

October harvest of Fortex and Musica pole beans

October harvest of Fortex and Musica pole beans

Back in August I planted some Slobolt lettuce in two of the cold frame beds, hoping it would survive the heat and give us a jump on salads for the fall season. I think it did quite well, and I need to make a note and try to plant some about the same time next year.

harvest of Slobolt lettuce

harvest of Slobolt lettuce

The lettuce in the above photo went into a Wilted Lettuce Salad my wife made for us. The wilted lettuce is always a real treat for me, no doubt in part because it has a little bacon in it and I don’t often eat bacon. The sweet and sour vinegar dressing nicely compliments the tender leaf lettuce too, without having it swimming in dressing.

Wilted Lettuce Salad with Slobolt lettuce

Wilted Lettuce Salad with Slobolt lettuce

The pepper patch is still producing like crazy. There are three Italian heirloom peppers in the below photo, the long slender Jimmy Nardello, the round pimento shaped Topepo Rosso and the smaller hot cherry pepper Piccante Calabrese. I’ve been a fan of Jimmy Nardello for some time now, but this is my first time growing the other two. Based on the results so far I think they will be back next year as well.

Jimmy Nardello, Topepo Rosso and Piccante Calabrese peppers

Jimmy Nardello, Topepo Rosso and Piccante Calabrese peppers

A few weeks ago I pickled some of the Piccante Calabrese. I didn’t can them, I just prepared a sweet vinegar brine, heated it, and then poured it over the peppers in the jar. I added a few cloves of garlic for added flavor. When the contents cooled I put the jar in the refrigerator to sit and pickle for a bit. They turned out pretty good, and the hot peppers are pretty tasty prepared this way. I’m going to make another batch using some of the Topepo Rosso peppers, though I will have to cut them into pieces before pickling. The pickled peppers are nice for salads, antipasto, pizza, and for making pepper aioli sauce.

pickled Piccante Calabrese peppers

pickled Piccante Calabrese peppers

I also harvested lots and lots of the C. chinense varieties this week. Trinidad Perfume and Aji Dulce #2 have been especially prolific, and you can see them in the below photo. Numex Sauve Red and Numex Suave Orange have been less prolific, but are finally ripening up here for me. I used some of these peppers to make a Fermented Hot Sauce, and I will dry the rest to use for a very distinctive flavored chile powder.

Aji Dulce #2(front) and Trinidad Perfume(back) peppers

Aji Dulce #2(front) and Trinidad Perfume(back) peppers

Even while summer veggies are still rolling in, the first fall broccoli is ready to harvest. That’s Packman in the below photo. It’s not the biggest, but it is almost always the earliest of the ones I plant, and I can usually count of lots of side shoots too.

Packman broccoli

Packman broccoli

Whenever I travel it seems like I always forget to pack something. For the trip last week, it was soap! Mind you, we have countless bars of homemade soap in the basement, but I packed nothing. Fortunately my wife brought along some for herself and was kind enough to share. We always like to check out soap makers when we travel, and so this time I was on the lookout for something I could use right away. We found plenty at Appalachian Natural Soaps. We wound up talking shop with the owner, Victor Taylor and when he found out we were amateur ‘soapers’ ourselves, he threw in a couple of extra bars of soap for us to try, as well as gave us a good deal on his specially made extra virgin coconut oil. I am keen to try his Neem soap which he told me contains a whopping 30% neem oil, which is great for the skin.

Appalachian Natural Soaps

Appalachian Natural Soaps

My wife and I love to visit farmer’s market wherever we go. The Western North Carolina Farmers Market is open seven days a week, and we went there a couple of times while we were in Asheville. Of course I also had to try out some of the local honeys at every opportunity. The sourwood and locust varietals were especially tasty, though I am guessing that any honey that is produced while the sourwood trees are blooming is labeled ‘sourwood honey’.  I normally prefer to buy honey directly from the beekeeper but we didn’t get that chance on this trip. There is a tremendous difference in color in two of the sourwood honeys in the below photo, though they both have a lovely flavor. We also enjoyed some of the local apples, as well as some sorghum made the old fashioned way by an Amish family using horse and mule power.

honey and other goodies from WNC Farmer

honey and other goodies from WNC Farmer’s Market

I’ll also share a photo my wife got of me posing by the Flat Iron sculpture outside the historic Flat Iron Building in downtown Asheville. I’m wearing one of her t-shirt creations she dyed for me. She’s been busy doing more dyeing, and I will share some of the results soon.

me by the Flat Iron sculpture

me by the Flat Iron sculpture

And last but not least, I was pleased to be a part of the recently released Love It Evv Fall 2014 issue. The very talented Kana L. Brown asked me to do a piece on fall gardening for the Holistic Corner(page 28), and I was happy to oblige. Kana is a part of our Impact Community Garden this year, when she is not doing other things like being an esthetician and an editorial editor.

That’s a look at what’s been happening here lately. To see what other gardeners are harvesting and cooking up, visit Daphne’s Dandelions where Daphne hosts Harvest Mondays every week.

 

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Photo Friday: Biltmore House and Gardens

During our recent trip to Asheville, NC, we toured the magnificent Biltmore Estate. This mansion was built by George W Vanderbilt II and completed in 1895. It is the largest privately owned house in the U.S., with 178,926 square feet and 250 rooms. No photography is allowed inside the house, but the gardens were lovely even though it wasn’t the peak season. I’ll share a few of my favorite images from the tour.

front view

front view

me on the Esplanade

me on the Esplanade

view of the Esplanade from the house

view of the Esplanade from the house

stone carvings on exteriour

stone carvings on exterior

one of the many carved

one of the many carved ‘grotesque’ figures

pool with water lilies and papyrus

pool with water lilies and papyrus

cactus flowered Dahlia

cactus flowered Dahlia

mixed planting with amaranth

mixed planting with amaranth

Lynda in front of espaliered fruit trees

Lynda in front of espaliered fruit trees

orchids blooming in greenhouse

orchids blooming in greenhouse

bright colored coleus

bright colored coleus

Fatshedera hybrid

Fatshedera hybrid

Strobilanthes aka Persian Shield

Strobilanthes aka Persian Shield

walkway with grapevine covered trellis

walkway with grapevine covered trellis

openings in the trellis frame views of garden

openings in the trellis frame views of garden

garden tools as handles for garden gift shop

garden tools as handles for garden gift shop

I hope you have enjoyed looking at some of the sights at the Biltmore House and Gardens in Asheville, NC. I’ll be back soon with more local adventures here at Happy Acres!

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Cold Frame Winter Prep

Our average first frost date is still a few weeks away, but I decided it was time to get the cold frames ready for winter. I’ve used several different materials to cover my cold frames over the years, and I am currently using Agribon AG-19 row cover material. On the cold frame covers this material usually needs replacing once a year, and now is a great time to do it, before the cold winds of autumn and winter start blowing.

cold frame cover

cold frame cover

I took some ‘before’ photos to show the cold frames before I started working on them. The cold frame in the above photo is planted with spinach, arugula and lettuce. The cover is in fairly good shape on it, but I am going to replace it anyway. You never know what winter will bring, and I want the cold frames to be as well  prepared as I can get them.

bird netting covering kale

bird netting covering kale

The next cold frame is planted with Beedy’s Camden and Red Ursa kale. I’m using a hoop system made of PVC pipes and rebar to support bird netting over it. I will replace the netting with Agribon as the weather gets colder. I am hoping to overwinter these plants, and hopefully save seeds from one of the kale varieties.

this cover is in bad shape

this cover is in bad shape

The third cold frame is planted with kohlrabi and lettuce. The cover on it is in pretty bad shape, as you can see in the above photo. I will be replanting the beds as the current occupants are harvested, probably with more spinach and lettuce. The last of my four cold frames is planted in basil and I didn’t include it in the photo lineup.

cold frame covered with bird netting

cold frame covered with bird netting

I removed the old Agribon from the two cold frame covers I wanted to repair. The first one has bird netting over it, which makes a good material if all you are trying to do is keep out birds and other critters. That’s sometimes all I use in summer, and it works well for me.

cold frame after recovering with Agribon

cold frame after recovering with Agribon

I put the Agribon on right over the top of the bird netting. I like to cut the row cover material a bit oversized so I can fold it over and under the wood frame of the cover. I’ve found that helps to keep the material from blowing loose from the wooden frame. The other cold frame doesn’t have the bird netting on it, but I covered it with the Agribon in the same fashion, stapling with an office stapler. I could use a heavier staple with a staple gun, but then I usually replace these every year and the thinner office staples are easier to remove. You can see how I tuck the material under the frame in the below photo. I have found that when the winds start howling, it is best to have the material secured as well as possible.

another view of Agribon covered cold frame lid

another view of Agribon covered cold frame lid

I hope this been informative for those folks who are thinking about getting their cold frames ready for winter. I know that in areas with colder winter weather gardeners will likely be using something like glass or Plexiglas for cover material instead of the Agribon. So how do you all get your cold frames ready for winter? I’d love to hear about it!

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